PSU

Power supply guide

7 min read

The power supply is the least glamorous part of a PC and, precisely because of that, the one most people neglect. That's a mistake. It's what powers everything else with electricity, and choosing it well is key for your build to run stable and last for years. Here's how to get it right without overspending.

What it actually does

The PSU takes the current from your wall outlet and converts it into the exact electricity each component needs. It powers the processor, the graphics card, the motherboard, the drives... everything. If it fails or is low quality, it can affect (or even damage) the rest of the parts. That's why it's not where you want to cut costs.

How many watts do I need?

Watts (W) are the amount of power the PSU can deliver. The rule is to have enough for your whole build, with plenty of margin. By far the biggest power draw comes from the graphics card.

The simple way to calculate it: add up the processor's and the GPU's power draw, add about 100W for everything else, and choose a PSU that comfortably exceeds that number — ideally 30-40% more. That margin isn't waste: a PSU running at its limit gets hot, gets noisy, and wears out sooner. One with margin runs cool, quiet, and lasts longer.

As a quick reference for this generation: an entry-level PC is usually comfortable with 550-650W, a mid-range one with 750W, and a high-end one with 850-1000W. Our configurator does this calculation for you and warns you if the PSU you chose falls short.

The 80+ certification: what it means

You'll see PSUs labeled "80+ Bronze," "80+ Gold," "80+ Platinum." That's an efficiency certification: it indicates how well the PSU converts electricity without wasting it as heat. From lowest to highest: Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, Titanium.

What does it mean for you? A more efficient PSU wastes less energy (a slightly lower electricity bill), generates less heat, and tends to be better quality overall. For most people, 80+ Bronze is the recommended minimum and 80+ Gold is the sweet spot between price and quality. You don't need Platinum or Titanium unless you're chasing the absolute best.

Modular, semi-modular, or non-modular

This term refers to the cables. On a non-modular PSU, all the cables come attached (whether you use them or not). On a modular one, you only connect the cables you need, which keeps the inside of the case tidier and improves airflow. Semi-modular is a middle ground. It doesn't affect performance, but a modular PSU makes the build cleaner and neater. It's a convenience, not a necessity.

The ATX 3.1 standard and newer graphics cards

Modern PSUs come with the "ATX 3.1" standard, designed for current graphics cards, which have high power spikes. If you're using a recent-generation GPU, it's worth getting an ATX 3.1 PSU with the right connector, since it's designed specifically to handle those spikes without issues. A detail that saves you headaches with newer cards.

In summary

Choose a PSU from a reliable brand, with enough watts and margin for your build, at least 80+ Bronze (Gold is better), and ATX 3.1 if you're using a recent GPU. It's not the part to save money on: it's the foundation that holds and protects everything else.